Hi everyone, I can’t remember exactly what the last thing I wrote on my blog was, and since I was in Tuk and had Internet I wrote it right on the blog, didn’t save it to my computer. So, I apologize if there is any over lap, and I hope I got my dates right, cause the days at sea run into each other. But I think I have it straight.
It was the 30th that we spent the day heading for Tuk to weathered the winds. It was a bit after midnight we were cruising again out toward the continental shelf break.
July 31st we fished at a 60m deep station on the Kugmallit shelf break. It has been cold (about 6C), cloudy and raining. Later that night the skies cleared. A pod of bowhead whales were sighted, with a little one. I saw them spout once one of the adults and baby together. Then I ran off to grab my camera, of course by the time I got back out on the aft deck they were gone.
The last week of our science cruise however we will be focusing on studying a bowhead whale feeding area, where I have been told we will be sighting whales all day, and they’ll be close enough to feed them (well may be not that close). That will be amazing. I hope to get some pictures.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
quick update
so, we sampled at Gary Knolls. (Please don't judge me on my spelling - and it the spelling of Tuk is Tuktuyuktuk).
We have now surpassed the total fish captured during last year's sampling effort. I think is probably just a reflection of the fact that we have the measurements of how they set the trawl last year (depths, angle of line out, ship speed) and also how successful they were, so if they weren't successful last year with those methods we change it up a bit, and most of the time its worked..... and then sometimes we drag the trawl in the mud and bring up a huge mud ball - which I then have to hawl to the aft deck and spray out with a hose, picking out the tiny fish that were crushed by the mud ball (they get scarficed anyhow - but this is a messy, nasty job). I'm real cute, wearing my green slickers, hard hat, and covered in mud head to toe. I love my work. seriously there must be something wrong with me.
so we were on our way last night to the continental shelf break, when the winds came up to 30 knots (45 km/hr) and the forcast was not looking any better. So the captain said 'run for cover'. we are now docked in Tuktuyuktuk for the night, but he said winds are to settle over night so we'll be heading out sometime early A.M.
ciao for now. I have to head back to the boat. I am at a oil camp stealing wireless internet.
We have now surpassed the total fish captured during last year's sampling effort. I think is probably just a reflection of the fact that we have the measurements of how they set the trawl last year (depths, angle of line out, ship speed) and also how successful they were, so if they weren't successful last year with those methods we change it up a bit, and most of the time its worked..... and then sometimes we drag the trawl in the mud and bring up a huge mud ball - which I then have to hawl to the aft deck and spray out with a hose, picking out the tiny fish that were crushed by the mud ball (they get scarficed anyhow - but this is a messy, nasty job). I'm real cute, wearing my green slickers, hard hat, and covered in mud head to toe. I love my work. seriously there must be something wrong with me.
so we were on our way last night to the continental shelf break, when the winds came up to 30 knots (45 km/hr) and the forcast was not looking any better. So the captain said 'run for cover'. we are now docked in Tuktuyuktuk for the night, but he said winds are to settle over night so we'll be heading out sometime early A.M.
ciao for now. I have to head back to the boat. I am at a oil camp stealing wireless internet.
Docked in Tuk
July 29, 2008 en route to Gary Noles
July 25th, 26th and 27th were by far our busiest days yet. The Hershel site was important area for all the scientists on board so we were all hopping to get the work done. It is an area of particular importance as it has and continues to be explored for oil and gas reserves. There is a large (~700 ft in length) drilling platform already established, however at the moment not in use. We past quite close by it on one of our sampling transects (got a few good pics). It was kind of creepy in a way, this huge abandoned structure towering over us completely in silence. It’s only been there a few years but it looks aged by the sea.
The winds were strong on the 25th. Picking up to almost 25 knots. Bring in the beam trawl was tough and somewhat dangerous. The crane would lift it high to bring it in over the bow of the ship onto the forward deck but as it did it would swing with the sway of the ship. As we were fishing over a shift change, they kept the day crew on for an extra hour so that there were three guys on deck guiding the beam as it was lower to the deck, keeping it from swinging too wildly. After it’s on the deck I drag up our fish buckets and fill them with the hose, while the net is being pulled over the bow. When its on deck I untie it and with the help of a few other hands we lift the open end of the net into the bucket. Out net is made up of two bags, a course 1 inch mess bag on the inside and a finer meshed outside bag. Any larger fish and bycatch are trapped in the inner bag, while the smaller fish and larva are caught by the outer bag. We were going to set the trawl five times but it was too dangerous with the beam swinging so we finished with four sets.
The 26th was a busy day. As everyday a sampling schedule is made up for how it will work best on deck, we didn’t start fishing til after lunch. Later that evening a seal swam up to the port side of the boat where I was sorting our catch. I couldn’t throw him any fish but I had lots of bycatch (antropods, isopods, star fish, sea cukes, etc) that I tried to throw overboard to feed him. He played in the boat’s wake while we slowly steamed to our next trawl site. And then he disappeared, I looked for his company the rest of that evening but he didn’t show up again. We worked til well after midnight trying to process our fish.
The 27th was more of the same accept busier. We did eight trawls over the day. We got an earlier start on the day however, doing three trawls before lunch and then the rest just before supper. This was a little easier to deal with as we processed fish from the first set in the earlier afternoon and getting those done before catching more. This is a highly marine productive area. We caught almost 700 fish total over the two days. A variety consisting on arctic cod, many types of sculpin (hamecon, arctic staghorn, two horn, spatuate) snailfish (kelp and gelatinous), arctic alligator fish, eel pout, eel blenny. Keep in mind we’re not fishing for large body fish, our trawl isn’t big enough, and we are only fishing at about 2 knots. All our catch are under 10cm, just the little guys. We finished up working at a little after 1am. I was too wired, and sat in the mess for a bit eating popcorn and watching a movie by myself it I relaxed enough to get some sleep. The rest of the sampling locations for the next few weeks are not as productive and we will not be fishing as much.
July 28th we moved to the west side of Hershel Island. I slept in as we didn’t fish til noon. I’m sleeping ok. I actually find the rocking of the ship relaxing while I’m trying to drift into sleep. But waking up to everything creaking around you, and your closet door banging as the ship rocks. The first few days onboard I couldn’t figure out how I was getting so many strange bruises including a huge one on my lower back – it’s from walking around the ship and bumping into things, as we’ve had some rougher water.
We really don’t have access to any worldly news here. I did hear today from my bunkmate that a local family from Inuvik, who spend every summer on a small coastal island to whale hunt were drowned, the only one who live was a 9 year old boy. How awful. It reminds you of the respect the ocean demands.
It was a cool day, only 4C, and the weather a bit weird as it was really foggy, we couldn’t see shore, but the sun was shining on us and directly above us you could see blue sky. The fishing was quick, three sets, not too many fish. We did however have two new species (new to this trip) we were pretty excited about: a pacific sand lance, and a variegated snailfish. We were all finishing with our processing by supper time. It was nice to have some personal time. I worked out for awhile and then watched a movie.
July 29th, today. We are on our way to Gary Noles. This is an area where there are suspected active mud volcanoes under the sea. It won’t be a complete sampling station (not all samples taken), only box cores and fishing. Once we get there, sometime after lunch, it shouldn’t take too long to complete.
I’ve been away for a week, three more to go. I feel a bit guilty complaining about the length of this trip, as the coast guard crew onboard are here for three months! But a month feels like a long time, and it is, since you can add the two weeks I was away before coming up here to it. Being home for one day in-between only made things harder I think. Don’t get me wrong, I was so happy to have that day with Scott and my Brook and Lanta. But it was hard to leave, and it’s hard to think of life at home going on without me. It’s also tough to think about what I will do after this trip, as I need to be looking for a job, an impossible task from here. What will the near future hold for Scott and I.
Missing you all. Hope you’re enjoying my updates. It makes me feel a bit like I have some sort of communications with the outside world. I do have an email address, and please, please drop me a hello. I do not have access to internet or my personal shawmail address, and can not receive email attachments. Please drop me a hello, and let me know the outside world still exists and how it is treating you.
July 25th, 26th and 27th were by far our busiest days yet. The Hershel site was important area for all the scientists on board so we were all hopping to get the work done. It is an area of particular importance as it has and continues to be explored for oil and gas reserves. There is a large (~700 ft in length) drilling platform already established, however at the moment not in use. We past quite close by it on one of our sampling transects (got a few good pics). It was kind of creepy in a way, this huge abandoned structure towering over us completely in silence. It’s only been there a few years but it looks aged by the sea.
The winds were strong on the 25th. Picking up to almost 25 knots. Bring in the beam trawl was tough and somewhat dangerous. The crane would lift it high to bring it in over the bow of the ship onto the forward deck but as it did it would swing with the sway of the ship. As we were fishing over a shift change, they kept the day crew on for an extra hour so that there were three guys on deck guiding the beam as it was lower to the deck, keeping it from swinging too wildly. After it’s on the deck I drag up our fish buckets and fill them with the hose, while the net is being pulled over the bow. When its on deck I untie it and with the help of a few other hands we lift the open end of the net into the bucket. Out net is made up of two bags, a course 1 inch mess bag on the inside and a finer meshed outside bag. Any larger fish and bycatch are trapped in the inner bag, while the smaller fish and larva are caught by the outer bag. We were going to set the trawl five times but it was too dangerous with the beam swinging so we finished with four sets.
The 26th was a busy day. As everyday a sampling schedule is made up for how it will work best on deck, we didn’t start fishing til after lunch. Later that evening a seal swam up to the port side of the boat where I was sorting our catch. I couldn’t throw him any fish but I had lots of bycatch (antropods, isopods, star fish, sea cukes, etc) that I tried to throw overboard to feed him. He played in the boat’s wake while we slowly steamed to our next trawl site. And then he disappeared, I looked for his company the rest of that evening but he didn’t show up again. We worked til well after midnight trying to process our fish.
The 27th was more of the same accept busier. We did eight trawls over the day. We got an earlier start on the day however, doing three trawls before lunch and then the rest just before supper. This was a little easier to deal with as we processed fish from the first set in the earlier afternoon and getting those done before catching more. This is a highly marine productive area. We caught almost 700 fish total over the two days. A variety consisting on arctic cod, many types of sculpin (hamecon, arctic staghorn, two horn, spatuate) snailfish (kelp and gelatinous), arctic alligator fish, eel pout, eel blenny. Keep in mind we’re not fishing for large body fish, our trawl isn’t big enough, and we are only fishing at about 2 knots. All our catch are under 10cm, just the little guys. We finished up working at a little after 1am. I was too wired, and sat in the mess for a bit eating popcorn and watching a movie by myself it I relaxed enough to get some sleep. The rest of the sampling locations for the next few weeks are not as productive and we will not be fishing as much.
July 28th we moved to the west side of Hershel Island. I slept in as we didn’t fish til noon. I’m sleeping ok. I actually find the rocking of the ship relaxing while I’m trying to drift into sleep. But waking up to everything creaking around you, and your closet door banging as the ship rocks. The first few days onboard I couldn’t figure out how I was getting so many strange bruises including a huge one on my lower back – it’s from walking around the ship and bumping into things, as we’ve had some rougher water.
We really don’t have access to any worldly news here. I did hear today from my bunkmate that a local family from Inuvik, who spend every summer on a small coastal island to whale hunt were drowned, the only one who live was a 9 year old boy. How awful. It reminds you of the respect the ocean demands.
It was a cool day, only 4C, and the weather a bit weird as it was really foggy, we couldn’t see shore, but the sun was shining on us and directly above us you could see blue sky. The fishing was quick, three sets, not too many fish. We did however have two new species (new to this trip) we were pretty excited about: a pacific sand lance, and a variegated snailfish. We were all finishing with our processing by supper time. It was nice to have some personal time. I worked out for awhile and then watched a movie.
July 29th, today. We are on our way to Gary Noles. This is an area where there are suspected active mud volcanoes under the sea. It won’t be a complete sampling station (not all samples taken), only box cores and fishing. Once we get there, sometime after lunch, it shouldn’t take too long to complete.
I’ve been away for a week, three more to go. I feel a bit guilty complaining about the length of this trip, as the coast guard crew onboard are here for three months! But a month feels like a long time, and it is, since you can add the two weeks I was away before coming up here to it. Being home for one day in-between only made things harder I think. Don’t get me wrong, I was so happy to have that day with Scott and my Brook and Lanta. But it was hard to leave, and it’s hard to think of life at home going on without me. It’s also tough to think about what I will do after this trip, as I need to be looking for a job, an impossible task from here. What will the near future hold for Scott and I.
Missing you all. Hope you’re enjoying my updates. It makes me feel a bit like I have some sort of communications with the outside world. I do have an email address, and please, please drop me a hello. I do not have access to internet or my personal shawmail address, and can not receive email attachments. Please drop me a hello, and let me know the outside world still exists and how it is treating you.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Beaufort Sea
We’ve been moving almost constantly for the last two days. Noon on the 24th we left Tuk toward the Kugmallit gas vents. These gas vents are caused by shallow layers of petroleum substances under the sea floor. Where these types of methane vents have been found in other parts of the world the zooplankton and benthic invertebrates living here seem to have a type of bacterial organism living within them that acts in a symbiotic relationship providing the larger animal with a source of energy (as explained to me by Alec). Here we sampled with the CTD unit (water quality profiling), box cores and fished. I was bored waiting for our turn to fish, as we all use the crane to lift our gear into the water, so I helped out with the box core sampling – what a messy job! Basically they take giant samples (~1m3) of the ocean floor sediment in a large grab sampler. This is then separated out into a number of different samples for grain size, core profiles, radioisotope analysis, fatty acids and sorted for benthics. By the time the crane brings the box up, sets it on deck, and it gets separated into the required samples everyone and everything is covered in mud! It’s great. Next was our first go at the fishing. We are using a beam trawl, about 5m across, maybe 20m length. We got the net in the water, and there was a lot of uncertainly on whether we were on the bottom or not, it will take the first few times to sort out where it is in the water column with the tools we have. We set the net for 20 minute intervals, and then pull it. At the gas vents we did 3 sets, and caught over 100 fish, including loads of arctic cod, eel pouts, eel blemy, snailfish, and sculpin. As we didn’t get to fish until after supper we were up til about 1am processing these fish (taking three different length measurements, weight, and stomachs from the arctic cod). After finishing up at the gas vents the ship had to head back to Tuk to collect a late piece of acoustic equipment, a few hours away. When I went to bed after 1am it was still as bright out as the middle of the day! The ship left Tuk in the wee hours of July 25th to head toward the next box core sampling site, about 53 nautical miles from Tuk. No fishing here. We left this site at about 10:45 and are currently headed west toward Hershel Island. This will be an important fishing area for us, and will keep us busy for the next few days.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Docked in Tukutukutuk
We cruised up the MacKenize yesterday. Every now and then I’d head out on deck to get a few shots of pingos (little hills created when water seeps into the permafrost and freezes causing the ground to rise, this continues and causes quite a little mountain to form). Later in the day we saw a pod of belugas. We arrived in Tukutukutuk sometime around 1am. We’re here to attach a side winch, our freezer for fish samples and some equipment calibrations. Not sure how long we’ll be before heading into the open sea, Mark and I will be fishing right off the hop once we get out there. I’m sorry I won’t be able to send along pictures with my journal entries our internet connection is just too slow. I feel a bit like the cycle tour is just now catching up with me, I’m exhausted. Can’t sleep enough. The 24 hour sun isn’t throwing me off as the port in our bunk is blocked off. I do feel like I’m coming off a bit of a high. The tour was so much fun, and I really felt like we were a big family and now I’m feeling like reality is setting in – I’m in the field on my own getting a job done, and to top it off summer is over! It’s pretty darn cold, had to hunt for an extra blanket last night. I’m looking forward to fishing as it will give me more to do, pass the day more quickly, so I can get home to my Scott.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Docked in Inuvik
After rumours that we may be stuck here at port for 2,3 or more days we suddenly received word to sail at 13:30 today! Some of the scientists have been here waiting for a week to sail! Mark and I have only been waiting for one night but that’s long enough for me. To kill time this morning after breakfast I worked out a bit. Down in the aft hull of the ship, amongst piles of miscellaneous equipment, shoved into a corner is an exercise bike, rowing machine and weight bench. As the aft hull is partially open to the engine room it’s a bit noisy and fumes waft in. Fumes aren’t too bad and the noise I blocked with my ipod. It was a bit of an escape; expect I’ll hide down there from time to time.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Inuvik, NWT
Departed Winnipeg at 16:40 en route to Yellowknife via Air Canada with Mark. Mark and I worked together a few years ago at Dept of Fisheries, and have kept in touch. It was impeccable timing that Mark called me the day I was packing my Golder office, not looking for someone to help him out with this job but just some thoughts on another project. And thus I ended up here.
Stayed overnight in Yellowknife and caught a Canadian North flight to Inuvik this morning. The original plan was to get a charter flight to Tukutukutuk where the ship would meet us, however Mark contacted the head scientist on-board and found out that the boat has been delayed due to missing paperwork and delayed equipment. Our flight stopped briefly in Norman Wells (I got a few good shots of some husky pups just outside the airport) and then on to Inuvik. We were picked up by a couple of the ships scientists, and had a quick drive through town. Inuvik is a few thousand people mostly employed by oil and gas or tourism. Inuvik just celebrated its 50th anniversary this past weekend, which explains why most buildings look relatively new. Saw the church igloo and brightly painted row housing.
I’m not sure how things will be on the ship, I’m sharing a bunk with one of the ship’s cooks, Jen. Seems a lot of people are here just putting in time, getting a job done. Maybe I expect too much to think it will be anything more than that as it is a job. Everyone seems nice enough. Just do my science and stay out of the way of the crew. Mark and I talked about the sampling and where we’ll be cruising – which will be west to the Alaskan board by Hershel Island and then as far east as Bathurst Inlet. Besides the required sampling, sounds like if there is time we will be putting together a library collection for a small remote community near Bathurst Inlet can’t remember the name.
To give you a bit of geographic reference: Inuvik is on the MacKenizie River and Tukutukutuk is at the outlet of the MacKenzie into the Beaufort Sea.
Stayed overnight in Yellowknife and caught a Canadian North flight to Inuvik this morning. The original plan was to get a charter flight to Tukutukutuk where the ship would meet us, however Mark contacted the head scientist on-board and found out that the boat has been delayed due to missing paperwork and delayed equipment. Our flight stopped briefly in Norman Wells (I got a few good shots of some husky pups just outside the airport) and then on to Inuvik. We were picked up by a couple of the ships scientists, and had a quick drive through town. Inuvik is a few thousand people mostly employed by oil and gas or tourism. Inuvik just celebrated its 50th anniversary this past weekend, which explains why most buildings look relatively new. Saw the church igloo and brightly painted row housing.
I’m not sure how things will be on the ship, I’m sharing a bunk with one of the ship’s cooks, Jen. Seems a lot of people are here just putting in time, getting a job done. Maybe I expect too much to think it will be anything more than that as it is a job. Everyone seems nice enough. Just do my science and stay out of the way of the crew. Mark and I talked about the sampling and where we’ll be cruising – which will be west to the Alaskan board by Hershel Island and then as far east as Bathurst Inlet. Besides the required sampling, sounds like if there is time we will be putting together a library collection for a small remote community near Bathurst Inlet can’t remember the name.
To give you a bit of geographic reference: Inuvik is on the MacKenizie River and Tukutukutuk is at the outlet of the MacKenzie into the Beaufort Sea.
Depart Winnipeg for Yellowknife
Dear Blog,
after having only been home with my husband for 24 hours I had to leave him again. This time for the north. I caught a plane to Yellowknife at 4pm on Sunday. It was really hard to leave this time, different than other field programs I have left for as I am unsure what kind of communication access I will have with him. I have been told I will have email and very limited sat phone access, so writting to my blog and emailing it to him to post for everyone might be the best way to keep in touch.
Arrive in Yellowknife around 11pm, slept at the Chateau Nova. Wondered out into town for breakfast this morning, and now am just killing a bit of time in my hotel room before we head to the airport to fly to Inuvik. The boat has not yet left dock there and so we'll met it there this afternoon, and hopefuly be cruising later today.
I'm working with Mark, an old colleague from a few years ago when we both worked for DFO. We've spent alot of time in the field together so I'm sure we'll make this month long program work.
That's all for now. Take care and write soon.
Cat.
after having only been home with my husband for 24 hours I had to leave him again. This time for the north. I caught a plane to Yellowknife at 4pm on Sunday. It was really hard to leave this time, different than other field programs I have left for as I am unsure what kind of communication access I will have with him. I have been told I will have email and very limited sat phone access, so writting to my blog and emailing it to him to post for everyone might be the best way to keep in touch.
Arrive in Yellowknife around 11pm, slept at the Chateau Nova. Wondered out into town for breakfast this morning, and now am just killing a bit of time in my hotel room before we head to the airport to fly to Inuvik. The boat has not yet left dock there and so we'll met it there this afternoon, and hopefuly be cruising later today.
I'm working with Mark, an old colleague from a few years ago when we both worked for DFO. We've spent alot of time in the field together so I'm sure we'll make this month long program work.
That's all for now. Take care and write soon.
Cat.
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